After spending a wonderful 3 1/2 weeks in Thailand, Colin and I crossed the border to Laos. The Mekong River, giving this area its name, winds down though the entire country, often acting as the border between Laos and Thailand.
We crossed into a small town called Huay Xai. There we bought tickets for the popular journey down the Mekong. This is known as "the slow boat." This long, skinny boat transports tourists and locals through an area that is otherwise slow and uncomfortable by bus or car. The journey to Luang Prabang (the top tourist destination in Laos) is two days with a stop in the tiny village of Pak Beng for the night.
The first day we were given tickets with seat numbers, so there was no need to be early to find a good spot. In fact, as we are learning more and more in Laos, there is no need to be early at all....or even on time. Life is set at a pace that we are still adjusting too. Schedules are merely suggestions. Our first day we sat for nearly two hours in the boat waiting for the captain to decide when to leave. That first breath of fresh air when we finally started moving was much needed!
We were packed pretty tight and the chairs we used were repurposed van benchs, which ranged from comfortable to painful, depending on your luck! We were pretty lucky and had relatively decent seats both days. It is also better than bus travel...you can get up and walk around the boat, stretching your legs and even purchasing food and beer (although a bit overpriced) from a small stand near the back.
The further we got into Laos, the more beautiful the scenery became. We saw green, lush mountains speckled with the occasional small village of bamboo huts. There were many other people on the river as well: other water transportation taking locals with their goods from one town to the next, fisherman gathering and throwing their nets from boats and rocks, children and families playing. Even the occasional water buffalo.
The picture above is the notorious fast boat. It gets you to your destination in half the time, but is much more uncomfortable, and very dangerous. Notice how the driver wears a helmet...
This was our first sunset over the Mekong. It would be the first of many, as much of the traveling in Laos keeps you close to this mighty waterway
On the second day, after 8 hours on the river, we were dropped off at a small mud patch used to offload passengers. We were about 10 kilometers from Luang Prabang, but had read of this happening so we were prepared. In the past, the boats took their passengers straight to their destination, but alas, no more. Instead, now people are forced to pay an additional fee to get a tuk tuk ride into town. There are a huge number of rather pushy drivers waiting for the passengers, each of them loudly telling you to get into their tuk tuk. Some people refer to them as the "tuk tuk mafia."
Colin and I had decided to start the walk into town. Many of the drivers (looking frustrated and upset with us) continued to warn us about the length of the walk - that we needed to get in their vehicle, but we would just smile and thank them, telling them a walk sounded just perfect.
It only took about 10 minutes for us to come upon a different driver, one that was not from the "tuk tuk Maria" that kindly offered us a ride into town at less than half the price that the others wanted. Sweet. We jumped in with the handful of other people that decided to walk, getting away from the crazy scene at the shore, and headed to Luang Prabang.
The slow boat is a interesting journey that many travelers find an essential part of the Laos travel experience. While at times it was uncomfortable and we had the occasional frustration (the mafia and late starts), we found it a great way to get to know other travelers, trade travel tips, and be introduced to the beauty that is Laos.
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